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Q&A for Components category

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I have a 2011 Banshee Wildcard. I am trying to figure out what size BB to put into it. All I can find is that it's a 68mm. But usually there are two number involved. 68x???.
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Answer: 
The other number you mention is the length of the bottom bracket's spindle in mm. The correct length to use depends entirely on the crankset you have fitted, not the frame.

Find the make and model of the crankset, and then you'll be able to look it up to find out what spindle length you need. Alternatively, remove the crank arms and measure the length of the spindle of your existing bottom bracket (assuming that you have the correct one fitted).
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Answer: 
The other number is chainline. For your bike i would guess u will need 68mm/56mm, but you should probably verify that. Good choice on banshee :)
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Answer: 
68mm is the width of your BB. You just need to work out what style, hollowtech - for cranks like shimano deore/slx where you have a 2 piece setup and the axle slides through the BB, ISIS for a lot of lower end truvativ cranks ..

then just find a BB that states 68/73 mm

this means it will work in either 68 or 73mm wide BBs!
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Answer: 
there is two numbers because it fits both sizes
so just find one with that size
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Answer: 
hi, the x something will be dependant on the groupset your using, if its a direct replacement, best thing to do is take your old one out, there will be a sticker on it indicating the exact size, then you'll be able to order that one..... done forget your antisieze paste
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Answer: 
If you order the 68mm you`ll be fine, the other number stands or the overall width and will only affect the distance between your two pedals
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can you advise which Hollowtech chainsets are compatible with 7 - 8 speed rear cassettes (Ultegra rear mech) please.

Perhaps I could buy a Hollowtech crankset separately from the rings ?

rgds RoyH
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Answer: 
There's no reason not to use the hollowtech chainsets with 7- or 8-speed casettes and chains. The chainrings will be slightly narrower than necessary, as they're designed for either 9- or 10-speed chains, but it won't actually cause you any problems. Of course, you could mount 7- or 8-speed chainrings on the cranks, assuming the BCD (bolt-circle-diameter) is the same, but there wouldn't really be any advantage to doing so.
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Answer: 
the problem of compatibility arises only for cassette 9, 10 and 11 speeds, because the chains are thinner and would not go on the front chainrings. your chain that is wider enters on all the front chainrings. Thinner ones must be more resistant, with use of better alloys, therefore more expensive. you do the math! ...
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Answer: 
pretty much any chainset designed for a geared bike will run 7/8 speed set up as 7/8 speed chains are a wider chain, you would only have an issue with the chainrings "grabbing" if you used a 7/8 speed chainset with a narrow chain (9/10/11 speed)
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Answer: 
all of the ultegra chainsets should be, or you can just go under the menue race and then under chainsets and the cross off the 7 and 8-speed boxes
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Answer: 
Hi there, doesn't look like you can get it here but the closest match is this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-alivio-m410-square-taper-triple-chainset/rp-prod46025
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There is play in the crank set, even though it has been tightened to its max. I removed the non gear side and found the follow info.
Shimano Malaysia via YF 175 FC MC 16/ MC 20 / M440 ( looks like) would you be able to assist with the replacement crankset and BB this is taper square.

Scuze the ignorance

Regards
Rob
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Answer: 
First thing to do is to ascertain where the play is - if it's both crank arms moving together, and relative to the frame, then it's likely that the bottom bracket bearings have gone, which will introduce play at the spindle, in which case replacing the BB alone may be enough - take the old one out and find an exact match using the information stamped/printed on it.

However, if the play is between the crank arms and the spindle itself, then it may be that the crank/spindle interface has become damaged/worn, and it's more likely that you'll need to replace the crankset as well.

Assuming you're happy with the existing gearing, and just want to replace like for like, then the Acera M361 crankset would be a suitable replacement. You'll need to match it with a bottom bracket with "English" threads and a 122.5mm spindle (spindle length is dictated by the crankset, not the frame). You'll also need to check the BB shell width (the bit of the frame the BB sits within) - it will be either 68mm or 73mm, and will be written on the body of the old BB, or you can measure it directly with a ruler. Then search for UN55 and choose the correct one from the options.
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Answer: 
you need a 73 x 122.5 square tapered bottom bracket, like this on
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-un55-square-taper-bottom-bracket/rp-prod71369
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Answer: 
It's unlikely that the play is in the crankset, and far more likely that the play is in the bottom bracket, which is a very common high-wear item. The bottom bracket is reasonably easy to remove and replace with the correct removal tools.

If the crankset is loose, this could only be that the crankset has been run and pedalled on while the securing bolts were loose, allowing the square taper joint to wear and enlarge the holes on the crank arm/s whilst pedalling over time (possible) - if this has happened, one or both of the crank arms will need to be replaced, as if the taper hole is now too large for the taper on the bottom bracket, no amount of tightening will cure the problem.

It is also possible that the chainring/s are loose.

Still more likely to be the bottom bracket though.
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Answer: 
get a new square taper BB sorted
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he has Long Legs a very short upper body seat height 103cm from pedal to top of seat,
would he be able to ride +train on 177.5mm cranks size 44shoes weight 70kg
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Answer: 
*^ 103=40-1/2 "inches @ 6'3' tall hes been on 172.5mm two yrs ago when 6ft tall& 60kg he likes cadence =relies on it ,would have hoped the 177.5mm cranks wouldn't prevent his cadence too much?
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Answer: 
Too many people get a bit over-fixated on crank length. If you have a really good look at just how small 2.5mm / 5mm actually is, the difference is really pretty negligible.

What's more important is how the cranks can / will be accommodated on the frame that you're going to put them on. It could be, for example, that if the frame geometry is particularly small & tight, then you'll get significant foot/pedal overlap with the front wheel when the bars are turned for cornering which is fairly undesirable.

Your son would be able to use any length of crank (they only generally range from 170 - 180mm in most cases anyway!) without any bother. What's far more important is the physiological positioning over the frame, the stretch to the bars, the position of the knee over the axle of the pedals etc etc etc - it would be worth investing a bit of time in your LBS on a frame-fitting session to get a better idea on this if you don't know what you're doing - most of the bigger LBS's can do this....
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Answer: 
I am six foot two inches and ride with 175 cranks on all my bikes; this is standard for the largest size bikes. I once test rode a bike with 170 mm cranks and hated it so size does matter. 172.5 is standard for medium / large bikes and unless you got something custom from a huge guy this is likely the actual size of your crank. Longer increases leverage but too long messes up the pedal stroke at high cadence.
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Answer: 
Length sounds right - it's a bit of a personal thing, longer cranks mean more knee flex. I'm 32" (Sorry, I'm an Imperial....) and run 172.5 on the road, 175 on MTB.
Be aware of decreased corner clearance with longer cranks!
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Hi, I am buying a used road bike and I want to change the chainrings on the FSA carbon crankset, from 53/39 to Compact, plus the cassette from 11-25 to 12-28.
Is it possible to do this? What do I have to be aware of? Where can this go wrong?
I was thinking of buying the chainrings myself and try to replace them on my own.
Do I need to change the chain aswell?

Many thanks

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Answer: 
Hey Andreas,
It completely depends on the BCD of your crankset first off. I'm probably going to guess that your chainrings are a 130 BCD, and if you would want to transition onto compact chainrings, compact chainrings are generally 110 BCD, meaning you might need a new crankset that comes with 110 BCD 52\36 or 50\34 chainrings. First part done. Secondly, generally road derailleurs with a short cage can take up to 28 teeth on the cassette, so you're probably in luck in terms of what you already have. I would grab a compact crankset, a new chain and cassette and I think you'd be pretty much good to go. Ride on!

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Answer: 
If you want compact rings, you will also need compact crank-arms, as the BCD is different. Simply buy a new compact crankset and replace your current full size one.

A 12-28 cassette is a simply change for any bike shop, but you might find that you may need to shorten your chain by a link or two when this is complete. Put your gears in the smallest chainring and the smallest cog at the back, and if the rear mech is too slack, you'll need to remove some links to tighten it up a little.
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Answer: 
Yoy can do it yourself, no problem. Make sure the bolt circle is the same. And the chain is to be changed every time you use a new cassette.
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Answer: 
Easy peasy, well worth doing.
Only hassle is that you need to lower the front mech to the correct distance above chainrings - sometimes the mech will bottom out on something before you get there (Why they make high-mounted mechs)
Chain will probably be OK without shortening, depending on who/how fitted in the first place - I always aim for minimum chain length, some people just fit a new chain 'as it came'. All you have to do, is fit chain, lift back wheel, select 'big front' 'big back' and check that the rear meck is able to cope. if the chain still has slack, consider removing links, but don't overshorten, as this can lock up the drivetrain if you inadvertently select 'big/big' on a ride - you have been warned!
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Answer: 
It's not the bike that's important, but the brakes fitted to it that matter. Even assuming that your bike still has the stock brakes provided by the manufacturer, you haven't given enough information for anyone to work out what they would be (you've neglected to give us the model name or the year of manufacture).

The easiest way for you to get the information you need would be to look at the brake callipers and levers themselves to find the make and model (and in some cases a numerical code, too). Then you can search for the brake pads that fit your brakes directly, rather than worrying about the bike they're attached to.
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Answer: 
What brakes have you got?
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Answer: 
Just standard Shimano disc-brake pads.
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CAN YOU HELP I NEED TO NO WHICH FRONT SHINANO DERAILLEUR I NEED
FOR THIS FRAME THANKS J/D
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Answer: 
Any front derailleur will work as long as you get four basic things right:

Top swing
Bottom pull (or dual-pull)
31.8mm clamp diameter.
Same "speed" as your rear sprockets and chain (original spec appears to have been 8-speed)
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Answer: 
It looks like it should be a standard 28.6mm clamp. You've not mentioned which groupset that you actually have on your bike though, so it's not possible to recommend something more specific.
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Answer: 
I guess the smallest seat tube diameter available because of the old design, this is probably true but it is still a guess, I'm not sure
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Answer: 
Personally, I would not change the middle ring alone. If you don't change the chain, the old chain will wear your new ring. If you DO change the chain, then the old inner/outer will wear the chain..........
What about the rear cassette? generally these wear faster than front rings- you don't want to spend good dosh & end up with mis-shifting?
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Answer: 
You need to know the diameter of the bolt circle
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Answer: 
On my bikes with triple chain rings the middle chain ring is always worn out first. I have always just replaced it with the same size ring. In your case 39 tooth rings are easier to find and I doubt this would cause you any problems. I have heard of problems from using smaller rings on shimano front derailleurs. They only time I have ever changed from the ring sizes that can with my bike was a change from a 32/42/52 Campy crank to a 30/39/50 FSA crank. This caused no problem for the campagnolo front derailleur.
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Could you pls send me the link of the adaptor?
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Answer: 
Due to the in depth technical information that we will require to answer your question, I would ask that you contact a member of our tech team using the link below. They will be happy to assist you further.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...
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Answer: 
Just forget about the below if you've already solved the matter.

It's the disk brake that decides which adaptor to use, not the fork.
Check the brand and model No of the brake first and look for the
right adaptor. It should indicate on the catalogue or whatever like
"160mm-180mm adaptor". You can probably find one on CRC site.

Make sure to choose the Post-Mount type, which is the standard
of Manitou, not the international type. Never use the adaptor of the
different brand, as it's too risky and very dangerous.

I've once done the same conversion with a Manitou fork & Avid BB7.
I got the right adaptor from CRC and it worked perfectly.

Good luck.
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Has staff answer
 
2 answers

Quastion about Brakes Formula R1S

I have a quastion about brakes Formula R1S - which calipers they have?

I read one comment about them, man said taht they have RX calipers..
(The picture and description shows an R1 lever and caliper, however the caliper I received is Rx. These are OEM brakes and do not have the line shortening hardware that the normal retail product includes. This is not a good price on these brakes considering you need to buy two line shortening kits and the calipers are Rx.)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ua/ru/formula-r1s-disc-brake-set-2012/rp-prod93694

Is it true or false? I will buy them if they all R1S))
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Answer: 
There is no such thing as R1S calipers.

R1S Brakes consist of R1 design levers and RX design calipers.

So effectively R1S Brakes is a mix between R1 and RX.
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Answer: 
RX calliper and R1 levers. You get the lever feel and function of the R1's and the excellent calliper of the RX, think of it as an upgraded RX or a hybrid brake.

ЭНДОТЕРМИЧЕСКИЙ кронциркуль и рычаги R1. Вы получаете чувство рычага и функцию R1's и превосходного кронциркуля ЭНДОТЕРМИЧЕСКОГО, думаете об этом как модернизированное ЭНДОТЕРМИЧЕСКОЕ или гибридный тормоз.

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Mud Plugger
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